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FLY OF THE MONTH


Jeff's "Big Mack"
By Jeff Pierce

The Big Mack is a super fly for large aquatic predators. It is at home in both fresh and saltwater. It is a great fly that has fooled everything from northern pike to marlin to king mackerel to mahi-mahi. It is a very versatile fly that can be tied in numerous color variations to imitate several different bait species. It can be tied as a tandem hook fly as described here, but it can also be tied with one hook. It all depends on the species targeted.


Materials List:
Hooks:
Front hook - 10829BLN 5/0
(can also use new C70S D 5/0)
Rear Hook - 92568BLN 3/0
(can also use new C70S D 3/0)
Thread:
Danville Flymaster Plus - White
Body:
(in order of attachment)
Slinky Fibre - Pearl
Fire Fly - Pearl
Fire Fly - Silver
Polar Flash - Blue Pearl
Polar Flash - Pale Blue
Rainbow Polar Flash - Blue
Gills:
Fluoro Fibre - Red
Eyes:
12mm prismatic stick on eyes

Tying instructions:
Step 1:
Place the 5/0 10829BLN in the vise and build up a base of thread on the shank.

Step 2:
Cut an 8 inch piece of 90lb Seven Strand wire. Laying the wire along the shank of the hook, run about one inch of it down through the eye of the hook. Begin securing the wire to the top of the hook with several tight wraps.


Step 3:
Pull the tag end of the wire that is running down through the eye tight against the underside of the shank of the hook. Secure the tag end with several tight wraps. Cut the wire to length and then be very careful wrapping over the cut end. The cut end of the wire is very sharp and will cut the thread.

 

What I do is place several loose (light pressure, no slack) wraps over the end to cover the sharp edge and then several more tight wraps over them. Apply a coat of Zap-a-Gap and whip finish.
Step 4:
Place the 3/0 92568BLN in the vise and build up a base of thread.

Step 5:
You now need to attach the wire with the 10827BLN to the stinger hook. The hooks should be opposed 180 degrees for the best hooking effectiveness. The distance the stinger hook should be behind the main hook depends on the fish you are targeting. The stinger hook should be farther back in the fly when targeting species that are notoriously short strikers.

The stinger hook can be closer for species that tend to attach the head of the fly like barracuda. Typically the eye of the stinger hook is 1 to 2 inches behind the bend of the main hook. Please keep in mind that I.G.F.A. Rules require that the stinger hook must be completely behind the front hook (eye of stinger and bend of main hook cannot overlap), but cannot extend out beyond the body of the fly. On this particular fly, the stinger spacing was 1.75 inches behind the main hook.

Once you have the spacing figured out, lay the wire down along the top of the 92568BLN and place 5 light wraps around the hook. Now, you need to adjust the wire so that the hooks are 180 degrees opposed. You do not want the stinger twisted to one side or another. Once you have its alignment right secure the wire with several tight wraps back to just before the bend of the hook.


Step 6:
Bend the tag end of the wire down and around so that the tag end runs along the underside of the shank. Cut the wire so that it stops about 1/8 of an inch short of the eye. Use the loose wraps/tight wraps again to keep the thread from being cut. Then secure the wire with several tight wraps and finish with a coating of Zap-a-Gap and whip finish.

Your tandem harness is done. Now . . . onto the fly.


Step 7:
Place the 10827BLN back in the vise and secure the thread again with a few tight wraps. Tie in a long bundle of pearl/white Slinky Fibre to the underside of the hook.

Step 8:
Tie in another bundle of pearl/white Slinky Fibre to the top of the hook, being sure to spread the material out and down along each side to blend it together.

Step 9:
Tie in a bundle of pearl Fire Fly material and then a bundle of silver over the top of that. You can substitute with PolarFlash of similar colors.

Step 10:
Tie in a large bundle of blue pearl PolarFlash. Then, tie in a smaller bundle of pale blue rainbow PolarFlash on top of that.

Step 11:
Tie in a large bundle of blue PolarFlash. When tying in these bundles, be sure to stack these on top of one another as neatly as possible. This will allow you to form the high profile of a baitfish and create the proper shading/coloration. Now, rotate the fly into the upside down position. Add the gills by tying in a doubled over piece of red Fluoro Fibre.

Step 12:
Now it's time to add the eyes. I used 12mm silver prismatic stick on eyes on this fly. I will generally mix things up a bit when tying a few of these. Give a couple red eyes, a couple chartreuse eyes and the rest silver. Some days the smallest detail may cause the fish to plow your fly or flat out refuse it. It pays to be prepared.
I then give the head of the fly two thin coats of Softex. This is a great material for adding some serious durability to your flies. It's lightweight, non-yellowing and it feels natural. I have also used Zpoxy, but I prefer the Softex. I coat the head of the fly to just back of the eyes. This will help the fly keep it's shape and keep the eyes on the fly for more than a few backcasts.
Step 13:
Next, I comb the fly out to get everything straight and then lay it down on a piece of cardboard. I then use a black Prismacolor marker to add the stripes to each side. Be sure to do this with a thick piece of cardboard under the fly as the marker can and will stain. Let it all dry and you are finished!

Fishing Suggestions:

The method used in fishing this fly depends on the species you are targeting. It makes a great bait and switch fly for marlin and sailfish. When doing this you are typically using naked ballyhoo (without hooks) to get a fish up close to the boat. Once a fish has showed and is hungry the ballyhoo is reeled in close to the boat to bring the fish within casting range. Then in one quick motion the ballyhoo is yanked out of the water and the fly is placed by the fish. If done correctly with an excited billfish the fly is eaten pretty quickly. You may need to strip the fly or slap it on the water a few times if the fish is not aggressive.

When fishing for mahi-mahi this fly is an excellent choice. The smaller fish will aggressively attack it and the larger fish seldom ignore such a healthy meal. I fish the fly subsurface to start with. If that does not draw a strike you can slide a foam popper head down onto the eye and the fly now becomes a large, noisy surface bait. I use the EdgeWater 3/0 Boilermaker popper heads. Very few mahi-mahi have refused this offering. Typically, when fishing is sub-surface I try to lay out a long cast and strip the fly quickly back toward the boat. Mahi-mahi which seem disinterested will often "wake up" when you really get the fly moving. This fly is responsible for my pending Texas State Fly-Fishing Record Mahi-mahi, which I caught back in August of this year.

King Mackerel find this fly irresistible as well. I had great success with this fly off the south Texas Coast this past summer. I was fishing the fly on a Cortland Quick Decent line, letting it sink about 10 feet or so before starting the retrieve. The retrieve was very quick 3 foot strips, which drove the mackerel nuts. Without a doubt, the most explosive strikes I've had on a fly rod. The 20 to 40lb kings were coming 4 to 8 feet out of the water when striking my fly. Setting the hook on a 60 inch King Mackerel while it was 8 feet in the air was something I will never forget. When the action slowed all we had to do was slide the popper head on and pop the fly as hard as we could and hold on. This fly is responsible for my pending Texas State Fly-Fishing Record King Mackerel which I caught back in August of this year.

Barracuda also love this fly. I have found that the best technique for the cuda's is to strip the fly as fast as you can until a fish comes up for a look. Then, STOP THE FLY. Let it sit and just barely twitch the fly. The barracuda will often begin to swim away, seemingly disinterested. Continue to twitch the fly and he will come back for a second look. They may come back several times for a look and then finally they just become so aggravated they often make one more pass savagely attacking the fly. They will hit it when it's moving fast, but the super slow motion technique works very well. I have caught some very large, educated barracuda using this technique in the Bahamas, the Keys and in Belize, including several fish over 40 inches and a couple over 50 inches.

Suffice to say that this fly is quite versatile. It will work on pretty much every large predatory fish that swims. Just give it a try. One thing I've started doing recently is tying these flies as tube flies. This makes the fly even more versatile since you can customize the hook to the specific situation.

It takes some time and a lot of material to tie the Big Mack, but it's all worth it if you want to catch some big fish!!

 

 

Big Mack with pophead


These are two Texas State Records I set on August 27, 2000 using the Big Mack. The fish on the left in the photo is a King Mackerel that weighed 19 pounds 15 ounces. The fish on the right is a dolphin fish (Mahi-mahi or Dorado) that weighed 11 pounds 9 ounces. Just some proof as to just how effective the Big Mack is.

Jeff Pierce
About Jeff Pierce Jeff Pierce, AKA Dr. Fish, is the North American Sales Coordinator for O. Mustad & Son (USA), Inc and Partridge of Redditch. He is the Captain of Team Mustad USAand is a diehard angler and fly tier.

 

All content © Copyright 2004. O. Mustad & Son A.S.
Use of material only in agreement with O. Mustad & Son A.S.
e-mail: info@mustad.no

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