FLY
OF THE MONTH
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Jeff's "Big Mack"
By Jeff Pierce
The
Big Mack is a super fly for large aquatic predators.
It is at home in both fresh and saltwater. It is
a great fly that has fooled everything from northern
pike to marlin to king mackerel to mahi-mahi. It
is a very versatile fly that can be tied in numerous
color variations to imitate several different bait
species. It can be tied as a tandem hook fly as
described here, but it can also be tied with one
hook. It all depends on the species targeted.
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Materials List: |
Hooks: |
Front hook - 10829BLN 5/0
(can also use new C70S D 5/0)
Rear Hook - 92568BLN 3/0
(can also use new C70S D 3/0) |
Thread: |
Danville Flymaster Plus - White |
Body: |
(in order of attachment)
Slinky Fibre - Pearl
Fire Fly - Pearl
Fire Fly - Silver
Polar Flash - Blue Pearl
Polar Flash - Pale Blue
Rainbow Polar Flash - Blue |
Gills: |
Fluoro Fibre - Red |
Eyes: |
12mm prismatic stick on eyes |
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Tying
instructions: |
Step 1:
Place the 5/0 10829BLN in the vise and build up a base of thread on the shank. |
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Step 2:
Cut an 8 inch piece of 90lb Seven Strand wire. Laying the wire along the shank of the hook, run about one inch of it down through the eye of the hook. Begin securing the wire to the top of the hook with several tight wraps. |
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Step 3:
Pull the tag end of the wire that is running down through the eye tight against the underside of the shank of the hook. Secure the tag end with several tight wraps. Cut the wire to length and then be very careful wrapping over the cut end. The cut end of the wire is very sharp and will cut the thread.
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What I do is place several loose (light pressure, no slack) wraps over the end to cover the sharp edge and then several more tight wraps over them. Apply a coat of Zap-a-Gap and whip finish.
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Step 4:
Place the 3/0 92568BLN in the vise and build up a base of thread. |
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Step 5:
You now need to attach the wire with the 10827BLN to the stinger hook. The hooks should be opposed 180 degrees for the best hooking effectiveness. The distance the stinger hook should be behind the main hook depends on the fish you are targeting. The stinger hook should be farther back in the fly when targeting species that are notoriously short strikers. |
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The stinger hook can be closer for species that tend to attach the head of the fly like barracuda. Typically the eye of the stinger hook is 1 to 2 inches behind the bend of the main hook. Please keep in mind that I.G.F.A. Rules require that the stinger hook must be completely behind the front hook (eye of stinger and bend of main hook cannot overlap), but cannot extend out beyond the body of the fly. On this particular fly, the stinger spacing was 1.75 inches behind the main hook.
Once you have the spacing figured out, lay the wire down along the top of the 92568BLN and place 5 light wraps around the hook. Now, you need to adjust the wire so that the hooks are 180 degrees opposed. You do not want the stinger twisted to one side or another. Once you have its alignment right secure the wire with several tight wraps back to just before the bend of the hook.
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Step 6:
Bend the tag end of the wire down and around so that the tag end runs along the underside of the shank. Cut the wire so that it stops about 1/8 of an inch short of the eye. Use the loose wraps/tight wraps again to keep the thread from being cut. Then secure the wire with several tight wraps and finish with a coating of Zap-a-Gap and whip finish.
Your tandem harness is done. Now . . . onto the fly. |
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Step 7:
Place the 10827BLN back in the vise and secure the thread again with a few tight wraps. Tie in a long bundle of pearl/white Slinky Fibre to the underside of the hook. |
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Step 8:
Tie in another bundle of pearl/white Slinky Fibre to the top of the hook, being sure to spread the material out and down along each side to blend it together. |
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Step 9:
Tie in a bundle of pearl Fire Fly material and then a bundle of silver over the top of that. You can substitute with PolarFlash of similar colors. |
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Step 10:
Tie in a large bundle of blue pearl PolarFlash. Then, tie in a smaller bundle of pale blue rainbow PolarFlash on top of that. |
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Step
11:
Tie
in a large bundle of blue PolarFlash. When tying in these
bundles, be sure to stack these on top of one another as
neatly as possible. This will allow you to form the high
profile of a baitfish and create the proper shading/coloration.
Now, rotate the fly into the upside down position. Add
the gills by tying in a doubled over piece of red Fluoro
Fibre. |
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Step
12:
Now
it's time to add the eyes. I used 12mm silver prismatic
stick on eyes on this fly. I will generally mix things
up a bit when tying a few of these. Give a couple red eyes,
a couple chartreuse eyes and the rest silver. Some days
the smallest detail may cause the fish to plow your fly
or flat out refuse it. It pays to be prepared. |
I
then give the head of the fly two thin
coats of Softex. This
is a great material for adding some
serious durability to your flies. It's
lightweight, non-yellowing and it feels
natural. I have also used Zpoxy, but
I prefer the Softex. I coat the head
of the fly to just back of the eyes.
This will help the fly keep it's shape
and keep the eyes on the fly for more
than a few backcasts.
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Step
13:
Next,
I comb the fly out to get everything straight and then
lay it down on a piece of cardboard. I then use a black
Prismacolor marker to add the stripes to each side. Be
sure to do this with a thick piece of cardboard under the
fly as the marker can and will stain. Let it all dry and
you are finished! |
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Fishing
Suggestions:
The
method used in fishing this fly depends on the species
you are targeting. It makes a great bait and switch
fly for marlin and sailfish. When doing this you
are typically using naked ballyhoo (without hooks)
to get a fish up close to the boat. Once a fish has
showed and is hungry the ballyhoo is reeled in close
to the boat to bring the fish within casting range.
Then in one quick motion the ballyhoo is yanked out
of the water and the fly is placed by the fish. If
done correctly with an excited billfish the fly is
eaten pretty quickly. You may need to strip the fly
or slap it on the water a few times if the fish is
not aggressive.
When
fishing for mahi-mahi this fly is an excellent choice.
The smaller fish will aggressively attack it and
the larger fish seldom ignore such a healthy meal.
I fish the fly subsurface to start with. If that
does not draw a strike you can slide a foam popper
head down onto the eye and the fly now becomes a
large, noisy surface bait. I use the EdgeWater 3/0
Boilermaker popper heads. Very few mahi-mahi have
refused this offering. Typically, when fishing is
sub-surface I try to lay out a long cast and strip
the fly quickly back toward the boat. Mahi-mahi which
seem disinterested will often "wake up" when you
really get the fly moving. This fly is responsible
for my pending Texas State Fly-Fishing Record Mahi-mahi,
which I caught back in August of this year.
King
Mackerel find this fly irresistible as well. I had
great success with this fly off the south Texas Coast
this past summer. I was fishing the fly on a Cortland
Quick Decent line, letting it sink about 10 feet
or so before starting the retrieve. The retrieve
was very quick 3 foot strips, which drove the mackerel
nuts. Without a doubt, the most explosive strikes
I've had on a fly rod. The 20 to 40lb kings were
coming 4 to 8 feet out of the water when striking
my fly. Setting the hook on a 60 inch King Mackerel
while it was 8 feet in the air was something I will
never forget. When the action slowed all we had to
do was slide the popper head on and pop the fly as
hard as we could and hold on. This fly is responsible
for my pending Texas State Fly-Fishing Record King
Mackerel which I caught back in August of this year.
Barracuda
also love this fly. I have found that the best technique
for the cuda's is to strip the fly as fast as you
can until a fish comes up for a look. Then, STOP
THE FLY. Let it sit and just barely twitch the fly.
The barracuda will often begin to swim away, seemingly
disinterested. Continue to twitch the fly and he
will come back for a second look. They may come back
several times for a look and then finally they just
become so aggravated they often make one more pass
savagely attacking the fly. They will hit it when
it's moving fast, but the super slow motion technique
works very well. I have caught some very large, educated
barracuda using this technique in the Bahamas, the
Keys and in Belize, including several fish over 40
inches and a couple over 50 inches.
Suffice
to say that this fly is quite versatile. It will
work on pretty much every large predatory fish that
swims. Just give it a try. One thing I've started
doing recently is tying these flies as tube flies.
This makes the fly even more versatile since you
can customize the hook to the specific situation.
It
takes some time and a lot of material to tie the
Big Mack, but it's all worth it if you want to catch
some big fish!!
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Big
Mack with pophead
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These
are two Texas State Records I set on August 27, 2000
using the Big Mack. The fish on the left in the photo
is a King Mackerel that weighed 19 pounds 15 ounces.
The fish on the right is a dolphin fish (Mahi-mahi or
Dorado) that weighed 11 pounds 9 ounces. Just some proof
as to just how effective the Big Mack is.
Jeff Pierce
About
Jeff Pierce Jeff Pierce, AKA Dr. Fish, is the
North American Sales Coordinator for O. Mustad & Son
(USA), Inc and Partridge of Redditch. He is
the Captain of Team Mustad USAand is a diehard
angler and fly tier. |
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