FISHING TIPS

Back to Part I

Ready for Fishing

Before you start fishing you should apply a floatant to the strike indicator. The weight of the nymphs will vary with the current and depth. Pull out a couple of metres of fly line from the tip of your rod and start at the top of the stretch that you are fishing. Make the first cast slantwise upstream, approximately at a 45° angle with the current. Stand parallel to the current and stretch out your arm as far as possible in the cast direction in order for the nymphs to land as far upstream as possible. This will lengthen the effective feeding out of the cast. The rod should be parallel to the surface when the nymphs land. Lift the fly line with an even movement while it floats down the river, but not so much that you affect the strike indicator. Neither the fly line nor the strike indicator should be allowed to flow past the rod. When you have lifted the whole fly line, move the rod to a downstream position so that it is always ahead of the strike indicator.

It’s important to stay in contact with the strike indicator all the time. Make a new cast when it has passed by a metre. Then the nymphs should be cast out at a slightly different angle from the first time, in one movement without air cast. Vary the angle of your casts to reach possible new fishing spots. The Grayling is reluctant to move sideways in its search for food. When you have covered the whole area, move a couple of metres and repeat the process with 5–6 casts at different angles. In case the current is strong and complex, it may require more casts.

The strike indicator should normally not be allowed to float further away than to a position right under the tip of the rod when the arm is extended. If you want to reach an area further out, try to wade to a better position instead of feeding out the line.

Be Focused on the Strike Indicator

Stay focused on the strike indicator during the whole feeding out of the line. In addition to indicating strikes, it will show the speed of the current at the surface and also where the nymphs are at any given time. If you keep in contact with the strike indicator, you will feel most strikes directly through the rod. If you can feel a strike or see a deviant movement of the strike indicator, you can make a strike by lifting the rod evenly. If you pull too fast the leader may break. The “bottom strikes” are normally much slower than real ones, and it doesn’t take much time before you learn to distinguish between a “bottom strike” and real fish strikes. Normally the nymphs fish the best when the middle and end flies have reached the bottom. Most fish take the fly during the last phase of the feeding out.

While wading you will cause gravel, caddis larvae and other organisms to be taken by the stream and carried downstream. In many cases this can be a trigger to the fish, which is why I almost always start on top and then wade downstream when I’m fishing using the Czech technique.

The Hook

When fishing Czech, the flies will be in much contact with the bottom. Therefore it’s important to check the hooks from time to time, and especially after a strong “bottom strike”. I’m very satisfied with Mustad’s new circle hook, Demon circle 39951BLN. The great advantage of this hook is that the point is bent inwards, and therefore it doesn’t become blunt, as more traditional hooks would be after hitting the bottom time after time. In addition, it is made with an Ultrapoint, which makes the point more resistant to wear and tear. Last but not least, it has excellent hooking properties.

The Usual Mistakes

The technique is simple, but it’s easy to make mistakes. These are some of the most common ones:

1. The line is too long, so that the nymphs will not pass under the rod , but on the side, which results in side movement
2. The nymphs are lead faster downstream than the natural current
3. The nymphs are allowed to float too far downstream before they are lifted for a new cast.
4. Not paying attention to the strike indicator.
5. Rod movements that prevent the nymphs from floating freely.

How to Make a Strike Indicator

Cut off a piece of 60-80 cm of 30-50lb woven Dacron backing line in a fluorescent colour. In case you can’t get hold of fluorescent Dacron, you may use a white one that you can colour yourself with a fluorescent felt pen. In my experience, what gives the best visibility is fluorescent orange or pink. Find a thin metal wire (for example a copper wire) and double it. Then you stick the loop end into the Dacron fabric and thread it through the hollow centre of the backing line towards the end of it. After approx. 8 cm you let the metal wire stick out of the Dacron again. Put the end of the Dacron line through the metal wire loop and pull it back through the hollow of the Dacron line. (See the drawing). This operation has created a loop at the end. Pull until the loop has the right size, about the size of a leader loop.Use some fly-tying thread and make some windings at the root of the loop. Then make a whip-finish and add a drop of super glue over the knot to seal it. Repeat the same operation at the other end of the Dacron. This will give you a functional strike indicator that will last for a long time. The advantage of this design, compared to more traditional float indicators, is among other things that they can be reeled onto the reel after you stop fishing.

Course with Jan Siman

It’s difficult to become good at the Czech technique by just reading theory. Last autumn approximately 15 fishermen got the chance to take part in a course with Jan Siman from the Czech national team. Even experienced Norwegian national team members were able to pick up some useful stuff, and lots of Grayling fell for the tricks in the Trysil River. Today, Jan is the most prominent exponent of the Czech technique when it comes to courses and international marketing. He has started his own company for production of fly-tying equipment and materials for this type of fishing.

The following statements reflect some of the experiences from the course: